Sri Lanka - exotic beauty
We finished up with the Mlabri tribe in Thailand, with a surplus of around $500 raised for them. We set aside the extra funds as a trust for future projects for them. Thank you all who contributed!
Our last few days were spent in Bangkok, where we went out dancing for my birthday! My buddy from college Ryan and our new friend from the UK Victoria took us out and we danced the night away! It was quite fun. The next day Ryan and I went for Thai message, with a game if badminton after! Fun fun!
Two days later Aria and I were on a plane to Sri Lanka!
We arrived in Colombo, the capital city excited to be out of Thailand. Two months was enough. Though it was quite a nice experience, the last month in Nan wore thin. Working with the Mlabri tribe was some work, and the town became quite boring after a while.
With a wave of heat we were met off the plane. The strike difference in culture was truly inspiring. Right out of the terminal a middle man got us a cab, ripping is off 500 Sri Lankan rupees (only $3.45. We didn't need a middle man to get us a cab). The driver was very friendly, and was kind enough to take us around to look for the cheapest and best place to stay. After a painstaking hour of searching, we decided to go with the hostel that was online, a "backpackers" hostel. For sure this would be cheap. We were disturbed to find out that the room was $20 a night! Double what we where paying in Nan Thailand, and it was not close to being as nice. A quick walk to the ocean we found a turtle conservation project. They had a safe area where the turtles could lay eggs. Inside a little lean two structure were a few tanks where injured and breeding turtles lived. There were about 4 types of turtles there. It was quite a treat to see these beautiful creatures up close!
We quickly planed our trip the next day to the Visa office for India in Sri Lanka, and then off to the mountain town of Kandy.
The visa office was quite smooth, but we had to return after processing in a week. So off we went to go explore Sri Lanka! The train to Kandy couldn't of fit another human on it. It was completely packed! I strategically waited to the very last moment to board the train, so I could hang out the door with a local fellow who was just as smart. The two of us hung out the door the whole 3 hour train ride through the mountains. It was such a beautiful ride. Small villages with local people tending their daily needs, with beautiful views of the mountains.
When we arrived in Kandy, a local Tuk Tuk driver (three wheeled taxi) offer us a ride to a cheap guest house for about 69 cents. We accepted, not knowing the town or where to stay. He took us to a place that was near the lake. The room was simple and about $10 a night. Much more our speed for the long haul of traveling. He offered to take us on a tour of the town for $4. We accepted. He took us to an amazing vegetarian Sri Lankan food restaurant! We were so happy after eating Thai food for two months! The food was amazing an about $1.50 for both of us! He then took us up to a giant 80 foot Buddha statue that stood ontop of a near by peak. It was amazing. Though it was almost night, we enjoyed a quick tour of the monument. Thailand also had many giant Buddha statues, but this was the first one that we got to see up close.
After a nice sleep we wandered around the town of Kandy. We walked through the local market and admired the spices and exotic fruits. The locals were all very interested in us, just as much, if not more so, than us in them! They continuously asked us to browse their stall, and quickly asked where we were from... "America!!!" They would shout, as if they just won some prize in a difficult contest. Followed by "Obama!!!" It was quite a show. One man greeted us with ginger tea as the locals gathered around and asked questions.
At the bus station in Kandy, we decided to purchase a SIM card with 6 gigs of data for around $4. While I was charging my phone, a gentleman began to tell us about the town of Dambulla. We were going to take the bus to Habarana in hopes to have a visit with the wild elephants that reside there. The man spoke of his brothers guest house. So we took his phone number and gave it a try.
After a few phone calls, we were greeted at the bus stop in Dambulla by Dinesh, the owner of Nature Park guest house. He led us to his place on his moped as we trekked behind. His house was quite nice, set aside from the bustling town. We enjoyed the decent wifi, cheap accommodations ($8.30 a night) and very friendly and informative host. We decided the next day to take Dinesh up on his offer; $25 each to take his brothers jeep and see the elephants. All park fees included. A bit out of our daily budget, we thought "what the hell... Elephants!" And oh where we impressed. We started out in the park with many other jeeps carrying enthused westerners. After seeing a peacock we discovered a group of around 15 jeeps all nestled in with a small herd of around 20 elephants! This was quite a treat! After a few more stops and visits with elephants, we made it back to the major highway road back to town. During the gloaming, we witnessed a small pack of elephants crossing the road. This time we could see all the details of the magnificent creatures. Before, in the wild, they were trampling through extremely tall grass. Grass that was over 5 feet tall! But here, on the side of one of Sri Lanka's major highways (2 lane only), we enjoyed watching the elephants take their time as they crossed the road. A baby kept close to it's mother, occasionally taking a wrap with it's trunk around the mothers tail. Just incredible.
Sri Lanka probably has the most successful elephant rehab program. The little island is full of elephants. The park we visited had over 400. With at least 3 other parks in Sri Lanka having elephants as well. They are increasing, and actually to the point of becoming a nuisance to local farmers. The Sri Lankans are determined to save the elephants, creating innovative ways to keep them from the farms and train tracks. One of these methods is planting palmetto trees; a type of spiky palm tree that the elephants naturally avoid. The only problem with this is that the palmetto trees take so long to mature to an effective size. Having too many elephants is a better problem to have than to have an almost extinct population!
After spending two months in Thailand, and the previous 5 month stint in Kenya three years ago, we never saw elephants in the wild. Almost all architecture in Thailand has elephants, but the only ones they have are for giving tourists rides, or some that are in an orphanage. We only saw elephants in Kenya. Once. The first day we were there we went to an elephant orphanage. That's it. We saw a working elephant in Cambodia, which was amazing! But this was a first, elephants in the wild. They are such gentle, magical creatures. Their trunk is a skilled tool, able of the most intricate movements. Their ears act as fans, almost constantly on. Flapping gently at their large, strange shaped skulls. I'm just in total awe that such an amazing creature exists. Just go be in the presents of one. You'll see.
The next day was the local market right next to Dinesh's guest house. Aria was amazed at all the types of new vegetables and spices! So many colors and fragrances! I naturally made friends with the local tobacco dealer. Though he could not speak a word of English, he insisted I sit next to him, as he fed me food, tea, and ripped hunks of giant tobacco leaves and fed them to me. As you could guess, a crowd of locals circled, with maybe one or two able to speak a few words in English.
I asked Dinesh if he knew of a nice place to go snorkeling and see coral. He first recommended the south of Sri Lanka, but we were interested in a more remote location. Something a bit less touristy (the southern coast is known to be full of tourists).
Our host spoke of a remote town on the coast. He said that we could access pigeon island from the town of Niloveli, just north of Trincomalle. I looked up pigeon island on google earth and it sure looked perfect for some sea creature viewing!
We said good bye and thanked him for an amazing time. On our way to the bus stop to catch the local bus to Trincomalle, we saw a giant lizard! It was the size of a Jack Russell and almost as thick! A monitor lizard!
The bus ride was the typical Sri Lankan bus. Your lucky to get a seat. If you do, hope that you're by a window cause it can get pretty hot. The speakers blast local Hindi like music as the bus driver tries for the fastest time to the finish. Busses have the right of way. The driver is constantly pushing the bus to go as fast as it can and passing as many vehicles as possible. The passengers are silent as the music pumps and the transport cart that we are all stuffed in weaves. Occasionally there will be an abrupt slamming of the breaks and all the quiet people will lunge forward... To the sounds of the sacred music. Where the driver sits are the local deities. A mix of Hindu and Buddhism along with flashing lights and tassels. It's quite an experience. The bus drivers are incredibly skilled. And it's safe to say that they are definitely Sri Lankan Hero's.
Arriving in Trincomalle (safe and sound) we denied a local Tuk Tuk driver trying to make some western cash ($4.84) and instead took the local bus ($0.80) to the town of Niloveli. The bus conductor notified us that this was our stop, kinda in the middle of no where. Three Tuk Tuks awaited at the bus stop. We hired one for $0.69 to show us around and look at different accommodation options (quite common practice). I jokingly said "let me drive" and he quickly crossed the sleepy road and pulled over. "Ok" he said, and with a quick tutorial I was off, zipping down the dirt road to Nilaveli. He instructed me to pull over at a guest house. I checked it out and Aria went to the one right next door. She was quite excited by the one next door, so we chose it for $10.37 a night. The guest house was called Shadow guest house, cause it was in the shade of the hot sun. The Tamil family lost their home in the Tsunami of 2004. The man was a humble mason, and with the help of Habitat for Humanity, built his house and a second guest house. H for H provided the material and he the labor. He showed me the foundation of where the previous house lay. He then told me the story of the tsunami, and how the water came without warning. He and his neighbors ran almost a mile to the nearest hill. A very small mound. He said there was hardly any room for another body. His child was in his arms and only 6 months old. The disabled an elderly mostly drowned. There was about 5-6 feet of rushing water. Later I met a boatsman who was out to sea when the tsunami hit. He said the wave was over 50 feet high! After he crested the wave. He was pulled mikes out to sea by the back current. So far he couldn't see land!
The next day we walked to the sea. We met a British diver looking to share a boat to pigeon island. His name was Orrin. In a shorter time than it takes to get from Harwich to Monomoy we where at our destination. We dropped our snacks and water in a shaded area and put on our snorkeling gear. Right as we walked up to the sea out first amazing sighting occurred. "An octopus" Orrin shouted with enthusiasm. We watched as the sand colored octopus gracefully swam by. We swam out as a team and some other snorkelers not far off signaled to us. "Turtle!" They shouted. We rushed over and swam with this full sized sea turtle! After spending a moment with this majestic creature we took off, Inspecting coral and other beautifully colored fish. Such a tropical variety swam around us. Aria noticed a small shark swam near. Just then, they appeared. 5-10 sleepy black tipped reef sharks dreamily swam around us. They kept a distance to us, which we appreciated. The largest around five feet long, and all sizes in between. I was amazed to watch these creatures swim. They moved through the water with such ease. One of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. Many tourist snorkel here with the sharks, and they are not aggressive.
I took off with Orrin as Aria rested to the opposite side of the small island. Orrin went off to the right and I to the left. I noticed a yellowish tint to a boulder and swam over to inspect it. Just as I approached the small yellow lump became a deep dark red, and a bit larger as well! And another smaller bump became red! I noticed the pronounced nose and it's tentacles began to move! Octopus!! One larger and what seems to be a baby! What an amazing sight to see this animal change color! Fantastic!
We enjoyed our day snorkeling and returned very tired to our sleepy town of Nilaveli. Our hosts' wife cooked us an amazing dinner, and then we slept. The next day I asked (again jokingly) if I could borrow the husbands motor cycle. "Of course" was the reply, without additional charges! Aria and I took it to the local aruvadic message place. They covered us in fragrant oil an lathered it on our sore and tired bodies. It was amazing. They started by covering our heads thick with oil. Now I knew why the our hostess put newspaper in our helmets!!
The next day I took the bike alone and drove all around the country area. It was nice to be by the sea, and observe the local fisherman and their humble lives. I replaced the broken mirror on the motorcycle for our host, and we shared photos of ours home, life and work. I ended up showing our host some knots that are useful. He was very excited to learn the bowline. He said he saw it before and couldn't remember it. The next day he told me he used it at work, and taught all his friends.
Niloveli was amazing.
Back to the capital city of Columbo to pick up our passports and India visas. We found a decent place on air B and B for cheaper than the hostel that we first stayed in. The father was a retired UN humanitarian worker. He had some of the most amazing stories I've ever heard. His son went to America for high school, and his daughter was still there. They told us about Sri Lanka's biggest festival in Colombo in a few days, so we decided to travel Sri Lanka again for a few days before returning for the giant festival, and then catch a plane to India!
When we were in Dambulla visiting the elephants with Dinesh, we skipped one of the countries finest attractions, so we decided to go back! Dinesh was thrilled that we were returning, and gave us a discount on his already cheap room. The next day we went to Sigyria.
Sigirya is amazing. Registered as a world heritage site, it was first occupied by some Buddhist monks over 2,000 years ago. The giant rectangle shaped boulder lies on it's side, and is around 100 feet tall by 200 feet wide and around 400 feet long (estimates). Sometime around 1,700 years ago, a king with a vision created his palace on the stone. At the foot of the boulder he constructed vast rock and water gardens similar to the ones we saw in Cambodia. Intricate canal systems, carvings, and ancient painting occupied space, as well as rooms and a theater carved out of other large boulders. Where the edge was steep, they carved level holes in the side in a stair case pattern so that one could walk up the slope. Pretty screechy steps!
As we waited in a long line of mostly local tourists, we watched monkeys dance around us. Slowly waking our way up a stone staircase closed tight by walls on the side, a Sri Lankan woman screamed from the crowd above. We slowly made out way to the sight of the scream and discovered the largest monitor lizard I've ever seen. The wall was just below shoulder height so that we were face to face with this amazing creature. It moved around as if not to be lazy, and it's tongue acted snake like, constantly checking the scents in the air. It's dark monotone scales had the smallest pinpoint decoration of bright green dots, only noticeable from such close proximity.
Slowly we worked our way up the side of the boulder with the crowd. A spiral staircase took us straight up the side of the massive boulder to a collection of 2,000 year old paintings. No photos allowed. These were some of the mist beautiful ancient paintings we've seen on our trip. Extremely well preserved, they depicted sacred beautiful women well decorated with pointy hats and detailed dresses. Bare chested, this area of the woman was clearly appreciated as their size and perkiness showed.
We passed the "mirror wall" some 1,500 years old, that was called such due to the fine finish if the mortar. It was so smooth that it shined, like a mirror. Here poems and praises for the place were written by visitors in the Tamil languages (one of the worlds oldest written languages). Later in the museum we had a chance to read translations of these poems, most if which were about the beautiful paintings of the women, with some admiring the sheer beauty and craftsmanship of the place.
Around the corner and up some steps we made it to the lions paw gate. The claws of the paws were almost the size of a human. Just the feet up to the ankle were carved, but the massive size caved out of pure rock was quite incredible, along with the shapes being to scale and very smooth!
Up through the paws we climbed some modern metal steps steep with railings. As in Cambodia at the Angkor temples, these steps were so steep that looking down gave one the sense of vertigo. As we climbed we could see the ancient steps, small carved footholds in the steep face. One slip and it surly meant death. Grateful for the modern yet sketchy steps, we reached the top.
Not much left at the top but the foundations of all the buildings. Millions of bricks stacked in pyramid fashion out lined the walls and foundations. There was a large pool/bath area, and some other smaller baths carve into the boulder. The view from the top showed the amazing networks of water and rock gardens below. Flat agricultural land lay before us, leading a path to the monolithic mountains in the distance. Awe was truly inspired.
We had a few days left before the largest festival in Sri Lanka commenced, so we took the train to Nuwara Elia, the mountain region of the country. We already had taken the train from Colombo to Kandy, and now we would continue our train voyage through amazing scenery and tea plantations.
The train was as packed as you could squeeze bodies into. We experienced this type of body packing in Bangkok at rush hour. Laterally, body packing! Everyone was on top of each other. I again strategized for a door position, but even that was somewhat rude battle that I had to fight with the guys armpit I would be nestled in for the next few hours.
The train ride was magnificent. Very beautiful without any luxury, save fresh mountain air and nice views. Arriving in Nuwara Elia we were met with the usual Tuk Tuk hustle, which we smoothly navigated and got the bus to town for 400% cheaper.
The town was just what we needed. Sleepy atmosphere (for Sri Lanka) and a beautiful guest house overlooking the small town and mountains. Leaving the next day, we were grateful for our quick stop in the mountains, relieved by the cool mountain air, and returned to the never ending heat of Colombo.
The day after arriving in Colombo was Nawam Perahera, the largest parade festival in the country. It was totally amazing, and a clear view into the exotic culture if Sri Lanka. Everyone on the sides of the road was sitting, and quiet. The city built little stands for everyone to sit on. No one cheered for the amazing performances and costumes. Quietly, people watched in awe.
The main elements of the festival were music, costumes, dancing, fire, and elephants!! They music was almost always the same tune; with small pipes that had a sound similar to the pipes we would associate with snake charming a cobra. The drums were two sided, with one hand playing with a hooked tip stick, and the other with just the hand. Endless troops of men. Must of been thousands. Hardly any women!?!
The dancers where mostly younger men, with amazingly decorated head pieces and cloths tied around their bodies, usually with anklets. One troop of dancers held these long bendable sticks. One or two of the men would crouch in the center, while upwards of 15 to 20 men would hold the other ends, running as fast as they could in a circle! Hard to explain but the presentation was amazing!
Towards the end were the fire people. These guys would have these large metal circles with torches on them. Spinning and throwing in the air, it was a sight! They would pile on top of each others like cheer leaders. Totally nuts!
And of course, there where elephants! Draped in fine, sequins and some with lights, they where truly the stars. Most had their tusks removed to protect them from poachers, but some, maybe two, had their full tusks. These were shrouded in gold. Elephants of all sizes. Around 60-80 in total!
The day after the parade, we flew to Kochi India!
One of my favorite parts of the trip was talking to the local boats men in Nilaveli about the Tamil Tigers. It was fascinating to her their stories. 30 years of a civil war with the Sri Lanka government, and they are still victims of oppression. Some of their friends and families where killed in armed conflicts. Very sad.
The bus rides were also quite amazing! And the people so kind! Elephants, peacocks, giant lizards! Sri Lanka is a very amazing place!!
We've been in India for almost three weeks and I have so much to say! I can't imagine I'll ever have time to write it all.
We are currently in Varanasi. One of the most amazing places I've ever been. Surly I will write about this!